When I first stepped into Budapest, the grand Jewel of the Danube, I was surprised. I imagined it to be vibrant, lively and young but all I could see was a sleepy town full of concrete facade. Little did I know that she is waiting for an enchanted kiss to wake up and expose her inner warmth. Although pronounced together, if you look beyond, you will quickly realise that the great Danube not only divides the city geographically but culturally too.
Set in the context of French revolutionary uprising and British tradition, you probably have read or at least heard about the infamous historic novel of Charles Dickens – ‘A Tale of Two Cities‘ but come to Budapest if you truly want to experience the tale. Divided by Danube, Buda, in the hilly region of the West stands quietly bearing her class and symbol of royalty while her younger sister Pest on the East refuses to be such quiet. Pest is where all the actions are. Even some people call it ‘The Paris of the East‘.
The first city that comes to our mind when we think about tourism in East Europe is Prague. And, I cannot stress enough how Prague lives upto its reputation. Read my Prague Travel Blog to know why I insist Prague to be your must visit in Europe. However, as the motto of exploring more in less, we decided why not give Budapest a try in the same trip?
So, one day while returning from office, I started researching Budpaest and the narration of the video from Expedia (Watch it here) was so beautiful that I immediately jumped into the conclusion that in our style of travelling, Budapest is prettier than Prague and it’s a must visit. So, while finalising the plan, we kept only a weekend for Prague while 2 Nights and 3 Days for Budapest.
Well, I won’t call for a debate about whether Prague is better than Budapest or vice versa. It’s completely personal and both places have something unique. However, if you ask me, I would go back to Prague anytime in future without a second thought but if I have been asked to visit Budapest for the second time, I would choose Summer. Read on to enjoy my exhaustive experience both at Buda and Pest side to make the most of your next journey in this east European country.
From riding our first funicular to missing the opportunity to ride an amphibious bus, our trip to Budapest was full of memories to be cherished. Even though we did not get the best weather, some places are truly gorgeous and much better to experience in person than through photos. Today I will be sharing insider tips on how to choose between infinite tourist spots laid across Buda and pest. Read on to know about where to choose your accommodation, where to sit for a coffee, where to go for famous Hungarian Goulash, where to grab a Chimney cake, where to exchange money, where to buy souvenirs and finally where to catch bus for Airport.
If you are familiar with my writing style, you know I always provide an one pager downloadable and printable ready to use Infographic. Download it and you will never miss the highlights. Save it offline in your smartphone and refer it while you are in Budapest or maybe while you are just planning your itinerary.
Budapest: Best Things To Do
We were in the middle of a long trip at mid January and flew to Budapest from Tromsø via Oslo. After spending 5 nights in the Arctic, we were excited to see the Sun once again. But we had a tough luck. The 3 days we spent at Budapest were really gloomy and we experienced little snowfall too. Although we chose a wrong time to visit (or maybe it was just a bad luck), our route planning was quite correct so even though you won’t find the photos that interesting, you will get utterly benefited to plan for your trip to Budapest.
It’s good to plan your trip in such a way that you keep two separate days for Buda and Pest. Number of attractions in the Pest side are much more than that of the Buda side but the Buda castle hill region itself takes quite some time to be explored. Also, if you manage some extra time, hiking to the Gallert Hill is totally worthy and you will be rewarded with superb view.
Without further ado, lets jump straight into the places to visit in Budapest.
1. Heroes' Square
Start with Heroes’ Square, the most prominent square across the country. Situated at the Pest side, this iconic symbol of Budapest is a popular picnic spot for local Hungarian families so come as early as possible. But if you are into photography, night is the best time to visit this square.
This place is also known as Millennium Monument as it was built during 1896 Millennium celebration. Also, in 1900, it bagged the first prize at the 1900 World Exhibition in Paris. The 36 m high column dominates the square with Archangel Gabriel on its top holding St. Stephen’s Crown. Legend says that Gabriel appeared in St. Stephen‘s dream and offered him the crown of Hungary.
To get there, alight at Hősök tere station in M1 (yellow) metro line. You can catch bus lines 20E, 30, 30A or 105. Alternatively, trolleybus 75 and 79 also come into this square. There is no separate entrance fee to pay. If you happen to be at lunch or dinner time and have a plan of dine out, please try Robinson’s. It’s not the cheapest but the lakeside location is a complete showstopper.
2. Széchenyi Thermal Bath
Since Roman times, Budapest is famous for its Thermal baths. The city has more than 100 mineral hot springs and Széchenyi Baths in City Park is the largest and the most famous not only in the country but also across entire Europe. This neo-baroque building was established in 1913. In addition to the marvelous medicinal natural hot spring waters in the 18 pools, there are 10 saunas, several massage therapies, facial treatments and more.
Photo Courtesy: Here
Széchenyi Thermal Bath is less than 10minutes in walking from the Heroes’ square. It’s open daily. They have an official website (link here) where you can get all information you need. It’s best to reserve time slot beforehand because queue in front of the cashier is a big challenge. Many a times, your accommodation will give you some great combo offers so make sure to ask.
Széchenyi is not the only Thermal Bath across the town. However, it’s the most popular. If you are unfortunate and not being able to manage a timeslot during your visit, you can still visit one of the other. Some other popular baths in Budapest are
- Király Baths (Traditional)
- Gellért Baths (Old and Costly)
- Veli Bej Bath (Modern and Beautiful)
- Dandár Bath (A Cheap alternative)
3. St. Stephen's Basilica
Located in the Pest side and dedicated to the country’s first king, St. Stephen’s basilica is the biggest church in Budapest. Come here to get a glimpse of Hungary’s most sacred treasure, St. Stephen’s mummified right hand also known as the Holy Right Hand. Besides the interior, you would also have the opportunity to visit the dome for a grand view of the city in this busy area.
Reaching here from the Thermal bath is super simple. Just catch M1 (yellow) line metro and ride 7 stops (8 minutes) from Széchenyi fürdő to Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út. If you wish to walk, it’s little more than 3KM.
The area in front of the Basilica is quite photogenic. Also, it is loaded with cafe and eateries. Starting from international joints to local delicacy, this area is a perfect place to have your lunch or at least grab a coffee. My personal preference would be California Coffee company for their seating arrangement and wide range of coffee and muffin in super affordable price point. If you are interested, you would also find souvenir shops (Don’t buy from inside the basilica) as well with considerably affordable price range.
Once you step up the stairs in the front date, on the right in front of you, you have the entrance to the Basilica. If you turn back from the entrance gate, there is the elevator to go upstairs to the dome. However, this is not free. For entering the dome with the viewpoint you do need to pay a small amount. With this ticket you can also visit the treasury of the basilica. To purchase the ticket, turn left from the main entrance and you would find a small counter with overpriced souvenir. Cross that and you would find the ticket counter.
Entrance inside the cathedral is completely free of cost. However, there is a donation box just in front of the entrance gate where you can donate whatever you wish to. However, during our visit, we felt little strange because there were people standing uncomfortably close to the donation box watching every person as they come inside the church. To me the donation felt more like obligation than mere voluntary wish. Although this link is not official, but you can get up to date information about entrance timing and ticket price for the dome and the treasury.
Personally, we found the Basilica super dark. Obviously the frescoes, statues, artwork and decoration are worth praising but if you ask me, I would rate Ghent’s cathedral in higher rank. But the main attraction of this basilica is the cupola from where you would get a magnificent panorama of the city. The elevator takes you up halfway. From there you have to climb up on stairs Even in gloomy weather, the view was gorgeous so in Sunny day, it would really be a sight to marvel. The treasury can be directly reached via elevator. It’s a small but unique collection and 15minutes is enough for it.
All in all, you would be needing somewhere between 1,5-2 hours to complete a visit of all 3 places. If you are not interested in the top view from dome or the treasury then maybe 30 minutes visit inside the basilica is good enough.
4. Parliament Building
Walk about 1KM from St. Stephen Basilica (Use Google Map) and you would reach the Hungarian Parliament building. Although it’s over 100 years old, this building is a beautiful example of Neo-Gothic architecture. Located directly on the Danube at the Pest side, this is arguably the most iconic building in Budapest and the third largest parliament building across the World.
Wandering across the Parliament building is free of cost but if you want to go inside then it’s a paid entrance. Not only it’s paid but it remains pretty crowded. So, it’s advisable to book ticket in advance. You can use this Website to get latest information about visiting hours and ticket price.
Both the Front and Back side of the Parliament building are gorgeous and worth spending some time. You can simply wander aimlessly across the park compound and capture this iconic building from every possible angle. Although the building looks more gorgeous from the Buda side, Pest gives you a different perspective and you will actually understand how grand the structure really is.
5. Shoes on the Danube Bank
After visiting the Parliament, walk across the river towards the infamous Chain bridge of Budapest. Very soon, you will come across some shoes sculpted out of iron and some even have flowers inside it. Strange, isn’t it?
The Shoes on the Danube Bank are a memorial dedicated to thousands of people (mostly Jews) who were shot into the Danube during WW II. They were ordered to take off their shoes before getting shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies would be carried away by the Danube. Today, around fifty pairs of shoes were sculpted out of iron along the Pest side of Danube river to remind us about the rough history the city once went through.
6. Amphibious Bus
Please refrain from calling the Emergency line when you see a yellow Bus floating in the Danube because friends, this is the bus that can swim in the river. Locally known as the floating bus, it can take you in a journey across many tourist attractions of Budapest in just about 1 hour and 35 minutes. The company that operates it is called River ride.
Photo Courtesy: Dreamstime
Refer this Website to get to know about latest price, timetable, route. In January 2020, it was about 11€ per person. Usually it departs from Széchenyi István Square (formerly Roosevelt Square) near the Academy Of Sciences. The primary moment of surprise is the point when the bus splashes into the water after a 70 meter long ramp.
7. Széchenyi Chain Bridge
Well, enough about the Pest side of the capital city of Hungary. Time to go to the Buda side (West). If you continue walking straight crossing the shoes at the Danube along the promenade, you will come across this majestic wrought-iron and stone suspension bridge of 375m length. Although, this is not a primary tourist attraction as such but visiting Budapest is incomplete if you don’t cross this bridge on foot.
During our 3 days, we crossed this bridge 8 times. Still, everytime we paused midway for a photo and then reminded ourselves that we already clicked a similar one 🙂 . Whether you are crossing the bridge from Pest to Buda or vice versa, the view across the Danube is absolutely gorgeous. If weather is calm, the reflection of the Parliament building over Danube is simply a jaw dropping sight.
Széchenyi Chain Bridge is not the only bridge (Although the First) that connects Buda and Pest. In fact there are many bridges lined up in very short interval. But none can compare (or even come close) the chain bridge. Guarded by lions that symbolize power, this link between Buda and Pest is a place where you will be wishing to come back again and again no matter wherever you stay in Budapest.
8. Buda Castle (And Hill)
From the Pest side of the Chain Bridge, you will come across a Hilly region on the other side. Just as you cross the bridge, you would come across that starting next to the Tunnel at Clark Adam Square, funiculars are going up till Buda hill, on top of which The elegant Royal palace (Buda Castle), unique Matthias church and fairytale Fisherman’s Bastion reside.
Despite the elevated location, it is super easy to reach the top of Buda hill. The most fun and unique way is to ride the funicular (1200 HUF one way, 1800 HUF return) but if you wish, you can catch public bus either from Buda side (Bus #16 or #116 from Szell Kalman Square) or from Pest side ((Bus #16 from Deak Ferenc Square). It is also possible to walk. The shorter but steep walking route starts just next to the funicular via the stairs leading up. The alternate comfortable route (takes around 30minutes) starts from Szell Kalman Square. Use Google Map and put Buda Castle as the destination location. This walk is highly recommended as you would pass by the Vienna Gate, the National Archives, Matthias Church, Fisherman’s Bastion and the Presidential Palace
You see the room saying Budavari Siklo. That’s the ticket counter. Remember that even if super low season, there was a long crowd. However, the service is quite quick so you don’t have to wait for a long time. Sometimes, local transport drivers will come and try to convince you that it would take ages to get there and they can take you to the hill in a fraction of time, don’t listen to them. Simply smile, ignore and continue waiting in the queue.
In the Buda side, this castle hill is the major tourist attraction. Relax, slow down a bit because you are in the other side of the great Danube. Everything runs slow here. All around here are beautiful architecture and postcard viewpoints. To me, even in very challenging weather, Buda castle hill is undoubtedly the best place across entire Budapest.
We would strongly encourage you to stay at the castle hill till the Sun sets. The change of color over the grand river is truly mesmerizing. When the darkness engulfs, the reflection of the Parliament building and the city of Pest from this Castle hill is just a sight to wonder.
9. Matthias Church
If you look at the Buda Hill from the Pest side, chances are that a colorful rooftop will draw your attention. That’s Matthias Church for you. Grabbing your attention even from the other side of the great Danube. Wait, not another European church! you might think but I insist you ‘DO NOT MISS THIS ONE’. Not only it’s exterior is super catchy, be prepared to get completely surprised by its off beaten yet glorious interior.
The church is open every day all year round. Weekdays: 9am – 5pm, Saturday: 9am – 1pm, Sunday: 1-5pm. For tourists, adults are charged 1800 HUF and 60+/Students are charged 1200. Children between 0-6 age are free. This price is for entrance inside the church. The Watchtower has a separate entrance fee (Same amount as that of entrance). You are free to choose to enter only the church or the watchtower or both. Guided tours are also available on-spot.
Later in 1526, Turks captured Buda and converted it into a Mosque along with a massive loot and destruction. More than 150 years later, when Christians restored it from the Turks, most of the glory was already destroyed but they renovated it in Baroque style.
The church is the grandest wedding venue in the city hence sometimes due to large event, public visit gets suspended. It’s not possible to book tickets in advance. The queue at the counter is also not that much. On the Saturday before Easter, the church is only open for worshippers. If you are interested in attending a holy mass, below information is for you
Weekdays: 6.00 AM (Orate, on Advent weekdays only), 7.00 AM (silent), 6.00 PM (organ)
Sunday: 7.00 AM (silent), 10.00 AM (in Latin, with music), 12.00 AM (organ), 6.00 PM (guitar)
Even though I strongly advise you to purchase a ticket for the inside of the church, whether you would purchase a ticket for the watchtower depends on the weather. If it’s a super clear day then probably you can pay some bucks extra otherwise I don’t find much value. Dude! you are already on top the Buda hill having the best view of the Danube. You want more?
10. Fisherman's Bastion
Well, if you want more, come next door to the elegant ornate structure facing Pest to get the best of the best . When we visited, it was super foggy and misty and after waiting for sometime, even if it cleared a bit, my photos do little justice to the location of this beautiful building. This place is straight from the pages of JRR Tolkien or JK Rowling.
On a clear day, you could see the most beautiful panoramic view of all of Pest. This gorgeous, neo-Gothic viewing platform is dramatically medieval looking and offers probably the best viewing spots across entire Budapest. This place is a Photographer’s paradise on a clear day. After all, Fisherman’s Bastion is nothing but a beautiful terrace with seven towers inviting you to capture the most incredible pictures of Budapest and the Parliament from here.
Fisherman’s Bastion is open year round including Christmas and New year. There’s no separate entrance timing as it’s a open place. In Winter, visiting this Spot is completely free of cost. To know more about tickets, visit this link.
Public Transport in Budapest
You can trust Budapest’s public transport with eyes closed. Name any tourist spot and you have at least one connection (If you have read my article, you already know that buses go to the top of the Buda hill, to the thermal bath and even run on water) to that spot. Regular public transport fare is 350 HUF per ride (No matter how far or less you go) and apart from the metro, transferring between lines (from a tram to a tram, a tram to a bus, a bus to a bus etc.) requires a new single ticket. You can save a little by buying 10 single tickets in bulk for 3000 HUF.
Having said that I would say that tourist attractions of Budapest are so close that you can easily (Read super easily) reach all the spots on foot. If you want a guided ride at leisure pace, you can consider purchasing a Hop on Hop off ticket for the day. If you have the plan of visiting multiple museums and taking a thermal bath while using public transports quite a lot, do consider purchasing a 72 hour Budapest Card. You can find a super detailed guide in this link.
Transportation To/From Airport
Budapest Airport is locally known as Ferenc Liszt International Airport. It is located only 16 km from the Budapest city center. However, the journey by road takes around 35-40 minutes no matter whether you choose private transfer or take public bus. Although you would find name of two bus numbers, do remember there is only one bus that goes directly to the city centre of Budapest from Airport Terminal 2 and that is 100E.
When you hear City centre, read it as Deak Ferenc Square (Pest Side). Bus 100E operates in both directions every 20 minutes from 05:00 to 01:20 (from the airport) and 03:40 to 00:40 (from the center). Ticket price varies but in January 2021, it was 900 HUF. Also remember you cannot buy ticket on board. Don’t worry. There are automated ticket machines which accepts both cash (HUF only no EURO) and credit card.
Alternately, from the same terminal you can also catch 200E which connects the airport with Kobanya-Kispest railway station and then you need to change to Metro line 3 to reach the city center. The bus leaves every 10 minutes, from 04:00 to 23:00 and the entire journey (including the metro) to Deak Ferenc Square lasts about 50 minutes. But I don’t know with all those luggage how convenient it is to change more, pay more and spend more time to reach the same place.
Transportation To/From FlixBus
If you are already in a nearby city like Prague (Read my blog here and for God’s sake, please pay a visit here) or Vienna or Kraków, you have a good reason to arrive at Budapest by International Coach which are super affordable. The service of Flixbus is quite amazing compared to its price point so I can fully recommend this company (No Biasness, No paid sponsorship). The Bus station is little less than 5KM from the city centre. If you have easy to move luggage, maybe you can even try walking into the square to save some more bucks. That’s how you can explore more in less. However, local Bus M3 is available from the Flixbus station to Deak Ferenc Square.
Buda or Pest - What's the Difference?
The Best place to understand the difference is from Gellért Hill in Buda side. Pest is completely flat while Buda is mostly Hilly (Read Trekking opportunity). If you ask me, Buda is more elegant, aristocrat, classy and more residential side but surprisingly quieter. It’s our kind of place so we chose to stay in this side. On the other hand, Pest is where all of the action happens. It’s much more vibrant, touristy so more place to hang out, have fun and nightlife. Also, the Airport, major attractions, most restaurants are situated in the Pest side.
It’s my personal experience that I found the Pest side to be cheaper (Food/Souvenir) than the Buda side. If you ask my recommendation, I would say that stay at Buda side (you will be in much more peaceful area) and do some early morning Trek. Spend the rest of the day at the Pest side within all the action.
Buda Castle or Castle District or Castle Hill
Do not get confused among the Buda castle itself, the castle district and the Buda castle hill. The entire hill is known as Buda Castle Hill (Yes, including Matthias Church and Fisherman’s Bastion). Buda Castle refers to the Royal Palace of the Hungarian Kings at the southern end of the Castle Hill. There are so many historical spots nearby Buda Castle all of which are within a boundary wall known as the Castle district. As for Buda Castle Hill, that’s namesake for ‘Castle Hill‘.
Where To Stay?
You know enough. Choose yourself 🙂 .
Yes, taste varies. From traveler to traveler. The two sides of Budapest are so dynamic that you alone can decide which side you would choose as your base. Just remember one simple thing. It’s super quick and easy to reach from one side to another any time of the day.
To summarize again, if you wish to stay at the peaceful part of the city away from the happenings and the busy nightlife, Buda side is for you. If you want to be within all the actions, then Pest it is. Below are some recommendations on each side
- Retro Apartment (Buda Side) – This is where we stayed. The Owner has two studio rooms, one with Oven another with Induction. When we reached, he asked us to choose and we chose the one with Oven because of its view and we found it more spacious. The location is super convenient to walk towards the Buda Hill or even till Parliament building of the Pest Side. It is supper affordable as well.
- City Center Apartment (Pest Side) – I highly recommend this place as it is close to many actions
I found that affiliation with booking.com changes over time. So if the link does not work, let me know in the comment section below and I will fix it.
Remember one thing. Try to take an accommodation near the Chain Bridge so that the you can quickly navigate through the City at ease.
Best Time to Visit Budapest
Although it’s a city, your sightseeing experience in Budapest can vary drastically depending on the weather. If the weather is cloudy/foggy/misty, I am sure you would be disappointed if you fell in love with Budapest after seeing bright colorful pictures. As the chance of adverse weather is more in Winter, I would never recommend to visit Budapest in Winter. If you enjoy snow, go to Zermatt/Chamonix/Hallstatt. If you want affordable destination, visit Warsaw or Kraków.
I would suggest you to visit in October or November. Why? It’s because we gathered some fallen leaves near the Parliament building which indicated that Budapest in fall is amazing. Later I googled and collected enough information to convince me that I am coming back in early November. You will get much less crowd, the daylight is quite enough and the weather is super soothing.
Are you restricted to Summer Holidays? Yes, Budapest is fantastic in Summer but make sure your accommodation has air conditioning. It gets quite hot in Summer and maybe walking to all tourist attractions will be challenging. Also, be prepared for dense crowd everywhere.
Hop On-Off vs Amphibious Bus
Well, to start with, both are completely different and you should never compare one to another. The amphibious bus is a 1hour 35minutes non stop slow paced ride in a very specific route touching some of the key attractions of Budapest. The Splashing of a Bus into the water and then experiencing almost a cruise-ride is the main selling point of the amphibious bus. But remember, with a single ticket, you can ride only once. You cannot get down at any point in the middle.
Photo Courtesy: Viator
The selling point for a Hop On Hop Off bus is to plan your day in your way. Here you purchase once and can use the service as many times as you want for the same day. You can choose to sit idly in the Bus and roam across Budapest or get down at each of the 20 stops across the city. With every ticket, you get guided walking tour but if you want added benefits like shuttle to Buda castle or a cruise (day or night time) then you need to purchase costlier options. Visit this link to know about latest price of different offerings and what’s included in which bundle.
My personal recommendation is to choose amphibious bus because this is something comparatively unique across the Europe. With every popular city, you can avail Hop on Hop Off service and in Budapest, attractions are so close that personally I don’t see much value of purchasing a Hop on Hop off trip. For Buda Castle hill, anyway I recommend Funicular service than any other mode of transport.
Winter Visit: Pros and Cons
Well, I read many articles where bloggers are suggesting Winter is a fantastic period to visit Budapest. I was convinced so I booked my trip. Below are the reasons why you should consider Winter as your time to visit Budapest
- From Mid November to mid December, it hosts beautiful Christmas markets
- Considering the cold atmosphere, Thermal bath Experience is out of the world
- Entrance to the most famous Fisherman’s bastion is completely free
- Experience snow covered European capital with minimal crowd
- Better experience of Coffee
- Better Cultural Experience due to lots of Festivals
But sometimes situations are not as you expect them to be. So, here are some practical downsides of visiting Budapest in Winter
- We visited in mid January 2020 and there was no snow. So, not all Winter brings snow.
- Entrance to the Bastion is free but what if it’s completely cloudy? What do you see from the world-class viewpoint? Yes, it can happen anytime but Winter increases the probability.
- Crowd is minimal but sometimes it’s so low that some tour operators stop operating. For example, you may miss the experience of amphibious bus.
In the end, it completely depends on you on which time to choose. Obviously your preference and my preference may not match. Just pray that the weather is not overcast and Budapest will remain at a very special place in your heart.
How To Reach Budapest?
It’s not very often that you get a chance to arrive at an European capital via high speed Ferry. If you fancy a water trip, look no further. From Vienna and Bratislava, you can catch high speed ferry to reach Budapest (Only between April to October).
From nearby cities of Poland, Austria, Czech Republic, Slovakia, you can easily avail international coach service which are super affordable and there is much flexibility in carrying large luggage. I can recommend FlixBus and you can check their network in Central or East Europe to know their offering.
However, when we arrived Budapest, we travelled from Oslo and flight is the most convenient option in that regard. Almost all European cities(including major airports from UK) have direct connection to Budapest Ferenc Liszt International Airport. If you can travel without check in luggage, I found it cheaper than International coach fare. You can refer to this link for a very detailed guide on this subject
To be honest, we did not enjoy Budapest as much as we expected it to be. That does not mean that we won’t be coming back. It means we will come prepared. And through this blog I want you also to get prepared because situations are not always as ideal as we expect them to be. Questions or Suggestions? Feel free to use the comment box. Have you already been to Budapest? Do you disagree with me? Please let me know in the comment section on where I need to improve. Till then, Viszlát.