“No, not you lady” The old man paused and then looked straight into my eyes. “I am asking you Sir”…
Standing high along the Leie and Scheldt rivers, Ghent is a city that suffered very little bomb damage during the two world wars. As a result its historical heritage has remained largely intact right up to the present. Once occupied by the French and later by the Dutch, the Flanders (Dutch speaking region of northern Belgium) city of Ghent should be the choice if you have to visit only one place in Belgium. Look straight and you will find a medieval castle surrounded by a moat. Turn right and you will find lines of impressive cathedrals together with a belfry. Turn left and gorgeous canal side landscape welcomes you. Turn around and a majestic city square with famous Belgium waffles, chocolates and fries call your name. It’s hard to find a second place with so much history per square metre than in the historical heart of Ghent!
As always, I was in very tight schedule. Before I came to the Netherlands for a long term deputation in July, me and my wife already planned that she is going to join me in mid December for around 50 days. For the week of Christmas, we were looking for a place nearby Holland to spend a weekend. With impressive cathedrals and fantastic reflection of houses in the canals together with a medieval castle, Ghent caught our eyes. Many friends have suggested to go to Bruges instead but after some research we found that Bruges looks more like a Summer destination and Ghent is one and half hour less bus journey from Amsterdam. On top of it, Ghent features a beautiful Christmas market even after the 25th December so without any hesitation, we chose Ghent over Bruges.
Now the crazy part is with free cancellation option, we booked our accommodation. Yes, we booked our accommodation for 28-29 December in the month of June. And to be honest, that’s the best thing we did.
We arrived at Ghent around 11:30AM in the Saturday morning and stayed for almost 24 hours before we caught our train to Brussels. We arrived at Ghent via Flixbus from Amsterdam Sloterdijk and took train to Brussels central from Gent Sint Peters train station. While in Ghent, we explored all the places by foot and we can assure you that Ghent is such a small compact city that you can easily follow our journey.
Download the one pager infographic and you will never miss the highlights. Save it offline in your smartphone and refer it while you are in Ghent or maybe while you are just planning your itinerary.
Ghent - Best Things To Do
I was excited. Not only because it was my first Europe trip with my wife outside Holland but also because I have pre booked the panorama seat of Flixbus. It was a winter morning on 28th December and our direct bus to Ghent from Sloterdijk was due to departure on 9:15AM. Weather was gorgeous in terms of Dutch weather and very few people were waiting to board the Bus. The bus arrived about 10 minutes before the departure time and it turned out that we are the only who booked seat reservations and the bus was less than half filled.
Our scheduled arrival at Ghent was at 12:35 PM but the bus arrived around 15 minutes earlier. Unlike Antwerp, at Ghent, the Flixbus stop is little off the beaten path from the central square. We already chalked out the route to our accommodation and as check out was only allowed from 2PM, we decided to explore the city a little along the way
1. Graffiti Street
Around 1.5 Km away from the Flixbus stop just before you cross Leie river, you will come across Novotel and the Graffiti street is just opposite to it. Google Map has clear indication of it and you will find large number of crowds going inside the narrow lane.
It’s a small street of around 100 metre length almost always busy with tourists. Every square inch of the wall was spray-can coloured with fancy drawings. The beautiful part is the drawings are ever changing so the narrow alley never looks the same in two consecutive weeks. Whether you are a street art fan or just looking for some cool pictures to spice up your instagram, a quick deroute to this beautiful street is a must in Ghent. We have not given attention for photo-shoot but here are some quick snaps of happy us.
2. St. Bavo's Cathedral
From Graffiti street, you can exit through the opposite side but as we found our entrance side more charming, we just took a U turn and came back in the same street. The majestic Ghent City hall (Stadhuis) was just in front of us and we could see the famous Belfry of Ghent. As we still got some time left before the check in we thought to take a leisure walk in that route.
The beauty of Ghent is that here Christmas market remains open till end of December so even on the last Saturday of December, we could still see shops getting lined up with a giant carousel in the background. With smell of fresh Belgian waffles and pies in the air, we approached the Belfry and realized that Ghent has another tall tower at stone’s throw away from the Belfry so we decided to give it a go
Soon we found out that the majestic Gothic building in front of us is the St. Bavo’s Cathedral. Out of the 3 major religious buildings in Ghent, if you decide to visit only one, do visit St. Bavo’s. I must admit that the exterior is rather flat but once you step inside, it’s a complete perspective altogether.
Ghent is known as the city of Rebels and this monument is a perfect example of the rebellious history from the past. In the beginning of 15th Century, it was built as a Romanesque church. Around 50 years later, it has been transformed into a Gothic structure and finally into a Cathedral. Today this 89 metre tall Gothic Catholic Cathedral holds the famous Ghent Alterpiece. There is no entry fee to visit the oldest Parish Cathedral but in order to view the alterpiece, you need to pay 4€. Before you pay this amount to visit the artwork, make sure to read online about its significance otherwise your journey might not end up as expected. Also keep in mind that generally the entry timing is restricted from 12:00 to 13:00 and the tickets are sold around 15 minutes before that.
Even if you decide not to visit the alterpiece (We did not because we arrived late), St. Bavo’s cathedral is still probably the best one in terms of jaw dropping art in forms of sculptures and glass painting. Another impressive artwork is a series of 11 paintings in the shades of Grey at the choir of the cathedral above the stalls out of which 5 are from the Old Testament and remaining 6 from the New Testament. You can also find works related to the Resurrection of the Christ.
3. Belfry of Ghent
With a city so rich in Heritage and prosperity, there is a need of a guardian and who else can guard the treasure better than a fiery Dragon watching over the city from the highest point at 91 metre. Recognised as a UNESCO heritage site, the Ghent Belfry is the tallest among the three medieval towers in the historic heart of Ghent. From exterior, it truly is an icon of the city holding the city privileges safely inside a locked chest.
The dragon which is made up of copper actually looks like golden from the ground. Apart from the guardian angel and the mascot, you can find a massive clock. Many a times the belfry chimes out some popular movie songs echoing through the city which is an amazing experience by itself.
Do you see the tall Church at the back? That’s the Cathedral of Saint Bavo. In December, the area between Saint Bavo’s cathedral and Belfry is packed with chalets of Christmas market and you can spend a quality time strolling through their offerings.
Entrance to the Belfry is not free. As on December 2019, it was 8€ per person. At the ground floor, you can learn about the dragon mascot and the history of Belfry of Ghent. The best part is you can climb to the very top of it either in stairs (366 steps) or after few steps you will reach the second floor from where it is possible to take the elevator to reach the top.
Once at top, you would get probably the best view of the Ghent City. At one side, you will find the tall St. Bavo’s Cathedral and on the other side, the astonishing St. Nicolas Church. The entire city from the city hall to Gravensteen are clearly distinguishable including the nicely laid out market.
In the very top floor, you will come across the mechanism behind ringing of the bells. As the music box like machinery turns, the bells begin to chime. It’s incredible to find the mechanical clockwork in action. I think you can watch the performance live around 11AM on a Sunday but to be honest I am not sure on this part.
Today Belfry features the guardian angel but its adjacent St. Nicolas Church was the former watch tower and the bell used to alarm citizen in case of any danger was named Roland. When Belfry was constructed, the same bell was melted and transformed into a carillon. The sad part is shortly after Roland is electrified, it formed crack and was in need to be replaced. At present Roland is put on display with a hope that someday it will be placed in the Belfry again as part of the carillon.
Entrance to the Belfry is much beyond the majestic bird’s eye view. Throughout your journey from the basement till the top, you will be offered loads and loads of history about the Belfry and this beautiful city of Flanders. It’s such a place that should definitely be your to-do list in Ghent.
4. St. Nicholas Church
If you come from St. Bavo’s Cathderal to Belfry then St. Nicholas church would be the last among the three towers in the historical heart of Ghent. With the presence of unique bluestone, this impressive building is a classic example of Schedlt Gothic style architecture. Remember the city of Ghent is located right by the river Schedlt?
This church is located so centrally that it’s impossible to miss it. Plus the blue-gray exterior adds a really magical effect. While taking a leisurely stroll, we discovered that before the Belfry was constructed next to it, this church carried the town bell for long.
Entrance to the church is completely free. The artwork inside is beyond description so I will let the photos do the talking for me. Don’t miss the painting in white. In reality they appear to be completely 3D and there is a high chance that you would consider those as sculpture.
We liked the interior of St. Nicholas Church so much that we again came back next morning and luckily we managed to take part in the morning prayer with a soothing musical performance in the background. While coming out of the Church, we met with a Priest who happened to visit India and to our surprise, he learnt some words of one of the Indian languages too. We had some good conversations and he wished us good health.
5. Graslei and Korenlei
Would you love walking hand in hand with your partner along a quay straight from the middle age with water side houses that are living and breathing history? Do you fancy a dinner date at a romantic cafe by a poetic bridge watching reflection of beautiful facades?
Today, the Graslei and Korenlei are the names of two streets that are located along the banks of the old port of Ghent. With a large number of cafes by the quay, you have the choice to enjoy the evening sitting at one of the those or just simply relax by the river dangling your legs over the quay. Want to enjoy the medieval city from water? Good news is that you can take a boat ride along the river at a very nominal cost (starting from 8€/adult)
All the big towers in the city centre of Ghent are at the side of Graslei. You may get confused that the historic centre with iconic buildings is actually called Korenmarkt in local language but Korenlei is actually the opposite side and both these sides are connected by a photogenic bridge named Grasburg. But this is not the only bridge which connects Graslei and Korenlei. Very nearby, you will find one more bridge (St. Michael’s Bridge) and another iconic church (St. Michael’s church) in the backdrop by which you could reach Korenlei.
We spent good amount of time exploring Graslei along the quay, from the bridge and captured many beautiful snaps both during day and night. The Christmas market, all the churches and iconic castle of the counts (Gravensteen) everything is super close to walk and unlike many famous European cities, it’s not super crowded as well. Below are some photo samples.
Walking at the night along the quay is probably the a thing in Ghent that would remain in your mind for long and after some months are guaranteed to bring smile when you look back your old album.
6. Gravensteen
It’s not everyday you get the opportunity to please two of your sensory organs at the same time. At the square of Ghent, You get the chance to enjoy an authentic Belgian Waffle while setting your eyes on a 700 years old Medieval Castle. The location of Gravensteen Castle is both Great and terrible at the same time. There are lots of cafes and shops only stone’s throw away which made the place really crowded. The castle is on a very wide and busy street with absolutely no restriction on movement of private or public vehicle which makes the scene more chaotic. Considering Gravensteen at the Centre, if you draw a Circle of radius 1 KM, then at least you will find 50 places to Stay so you can imagine how touristy it remains at any time of the day. So if you like convenience of public transport or a hotel nearby or maybe good places to eat or even buying souvenir then Gravensteen won’t disappoint you. However, overtourism is a serious problem as unlike many other European (Read German) castles which are located in a picturesque backdrop, this castle of Ghent is at the very heart of the city and surrounded by stone walls only.
Philip of Alsace, count of Flanders has just returned from the battle of Crusades. The images of grand Syrian Castles are alive in his mind. He has money, power but also a bunch of rebellion-inclined Gentenaars (Ghent natives). Legend says that to seek attention and to send a clear message of his power, he built this beautiful castle whose walls are almost 6feet thick and massive towers to keep the people of Ghent in line. Today the Gravensteen, A Gray and Gloomy but Grand Architecture stands hunching over the city with such an appearance that it is sure to bring up awe and fear from within you.
The audio guide is included in the entrance ticket of Gravensteen. After purchasing the ticket, you need to come to the open space and then there is a castle shop located inside the compound. Go inside the shop, flash your ticket at the counter and you will be given an old fashioned cell phone and a headphone. If I remember correctly there are a total of 14 designated spots across multiple floors of the castle and you will be presented with a story (Not so interesting in my opinion) about the specific part.
Throughout the Audio guide, you can hear the gruesome history of barbaric activities and multiple torture chambers. Featuring multiple courthouses and underground dungeons for criminals awaiting trial, Gravensteen keeps repeating the story how rebellions were kept in unlivable conditions and frequently tortured within the cold stone walls. Today, You can view a small guillotine with an authentic fearsome blade, spiked iron collars, racks, branded irons, thumb screws, and a special kind of pitchfork designed to make certain that people being burned at the stake stayed in the flames — in a small museum in the castle, along with weapons and suits of armor. After visiting the rooms and climbing two storey (Keep in mind that there is a specific tower for going up and another one for coming down – and if you try to use the wrong one by mistake, which unfortunately we did because of no clear sign then you need to return maybe from halfway because of crowd from the other direction and the passage is super small), you will come to the donjon and will be rewarded with a great view of Ghent’s rooftops and towers.
Below are few samples related to what you can expect while inside Gravensteen across multiple floors and rooms. You can take a glimpse of the locket phone and audio guide headset in one of the photo. Don’t miss the night view of Ghent from Top of the castle.
7. St. Michael's Church and Bridge
If you happen to stroll around Graslei keeping the Belfry or the St. Nicholas Church at the back of you then soon you will find a pretty stone arch bridge (3 arches if I remember correctly) with lots of crowd. To my personal opinion, this is the most picturesque arch bridge of entire Ghent which popularly is known as Saint Michael’s Bridge. Step into the middle of the bridge (Remember to watch out for vehicles and photographers 😉 ), look back towards the Belfry and you will agree with me that you can spend entire weekend there just watching people. Trust me, as the Sun sets, the place becomes even more magical. If you happen to be there in a not so windy day like us, then you can witness probably one of the best reflection of a glorious European city. Yes, it includes the reflection of the grand Gravensteen in the calm Leie.
Just to the left of Saint Michael’s Bridge (Sint MichielsBrug), stands high the Saint Michael’s church. “Oh! Not another church” probably you are thinking but fairytale Ghent has magic in every page you turn. Same like the other two, there is no entry fee as such to enter here so with added confidence, we stepped in. Ladies First, so me behind the footsteps of my wife.
“Stop” was the first word we heard as soon as we came inside the majestic interior. An old man was sitting just beside the main entrance hall.
“No, not you lady” The old man paused and then looked straight into my eyes. “I am asking you Sir”
At first, I had no clue what he was talking about. My camera is hanging from my shoulder. Does he want to say that photography is not allowed? Or is he asking for donation? Are we late and no entrance is allowed? Is there an additional security check?
Then I realized. I was with my winter cap on. I had no clue that for men, wearing hat inside a church is a sign of disrespect (pathetic me) contrary to my religion where some temples demand to cover our heads in certain sacred places. Anyway without going deep into religious practice and beliefs, I realised that he is asking me to uncover my head and then I am free to go 🙂
Yet again, there is no point penning down how beautiful and peaceful the interior is. I am not sure if Christmas season called for some extra attention or the church is that decorated year round but even if we visited this church at the very end among all so called tourist spots of Ghent, we still felt so fresh, awed and taken aback. Here is a piece of Neo Gothic St. Michael for you
8. Ghent Christmas Market
Well! To be honest, the first idea of visiting Ghent was because it is such a place where the Christmas market stays very much active even after 25th and it’s a weekend destination from the Netherlands. Now, even though the market remains open from noon till pretty late in the night, the fun begins as the Sen sets. Un-arguably it’s a fantastic thing just to walk past the fairly large Christmas market with the aroma of Fresh Waffle, Belgian chocolate and strong coffee on a chilly winter night. Although we bought only a pair of Christmas socks (I absolutely love those by the way), after glancing at several items, I found those cheaper than the Christmas market of the Netherlands (I am talking about Leiden and Maastricht). You can easily spend hours roaming through the versatile choice of fancy stuffs or master your skill at Night photography.
Talking about Photography and Night at Ghent together, if you are not a market oriented person or you are tired already, come to the quay of Graslei and Korenlei. I repeat again. Do come to Graslei at night. Enjoy Ghent from the St. Michael’s Bridge and then come down the stairs and take a leisurely stroll along Graslei. If you can tolerate the cold and have good layers, you can even sit at the riverside for a short while. The lit buildings, majestic churches, giant ferris wheel, poetic arch bridges and the reflection of the entire cityscape are the first things to flash in my mind when I speak to someone about how beautiful Ghent is and given a chance, how I want to go back there.
Where to Stay
Accommodation in Ghent is not cheap, specially if you are in the Christmas season. Even if you book far too early, it’s not cheap. In other words, don’t plan a last minute trip to Ghent if you are on budget. We booked our accommodation 6 months in advance but still it cost us around 70Euro for a private double bed room with bathroom and breakfast.
While choosing an accommodation, I would prefer a place close to the Grand Gravensteen or Graslei. Every point of interest is within 1KM of walking distance with lots of cafes, shops and photo spots nearby. It’s perfectly safe to walk at night as well.
We stayed at De Draecke Hostel. It’s just behind Gravensteen so walking to Gravensteen is like 5minutes. The neighborhood is peaceful yet super close to all the actions. The breakfast was good with choice of breads, boiled egg, packed chocolate spread, cheese, butter and wide variety of coffee and juice. As per the hostel policy we were not allowed to check in even 1 minute before time and we need to deposit a security money (A small amount ~5Euro) in cash which is refundable upon check out. No toiletries are provided and towels are charged extra. However, the private room is quite big (specially the Bathroom is a big game changer) and heating works just perfect. The bed is a twin bed but we merged two beds together to make it a queen size.
All in all, it’s a good budget accommodation and I would be again coming back. Here are some photos of the interior and immediate exterior.
Some other fantastic choices would be
8 Useful Tips in Your Ghent Itinerary
- Both the Flixbus Stop and the Ghent train station are far from the actual city center (Around 4-5KM one way). So do not plan to take your accommodation near the Bus or Train station else you will be far from all the actions. The path from the city centre to train station is more scenic compared to that from the bus stop.
- The Entrance ticket of Gravensteen has audio guide included and that is pretty comprehensive if you are patient. Do not book any separate guided tour.
- Do not Skip any Cathdral/Church among St. Bavo, St. Michael and St. Nicholas. You can split your visit if you have more than a day but each one of those is a gem on its own.
- There are many Waffle joints but I would recommend Salon de Gaufre. The outdoor seating area is fantastic with the sight of Gravensteen and perfect for people watching.
- The train to/from Brussels remain pretty crowded (Even on weekends) and chance of getting a seat is low so be careful with your big luggages.
- Personally I did not feel safe at Brussels because of pickpocket but that’s not a problem in Ghent. It’s pretty safe and comparatively less crowded than Brussels.
- I would not say Boat ride is a must (A big No if you are in Winter). Cruises along Rhine valley or even at Amsterdam seems a better choice.
- The Graffiti street is not very well marked so it’s highly probable that you will miss it. Trust on Google Map indication and unless you step into the narrow alley, it would be hard for you to believe on what wonder lies inside.
How to Reach
The cheapest (also probably the fastest) option from the Netherlands is the Flixbus. Directly from Sloterdijk, they take you to Ghent in little more than two hours with just a quick stop at Antwerp (The routes vary so choose carefully while you are booking your ticket)
Already in Belgium?
Within Belgium, Intercity train connects directly Brussels Central/North, Bruges and Antwerp with Ghent. If you want to travel to/from Dinant, then you need to get down at Brussels Noord (North) and change the train. Ghent and Bruges are so close that you can combine a long weekend trip to these two beautiful towns together.
Before you ask, I want to apologise not to provide good information about places to eat in Ghent because we ate out at a fast food junction with nuggets and fries and although it was tasty but that’s not something you need input from us. If you are in super tight budget (Like us always), just look out and Ghent has ample of those junctions.
How do you feel about this travelogue? Are you planning to pay a visit and Do you want to know more about something? Or is it that you have already been to Ghent and want to share some cool experience from your diary? The comment box is open. Feel home to leave your thoughts behind. Until next time take care !